We all know what Scandi fashion brands are supposed to look like. Minimal in silhouette, restrained in colour palette, they offer an all-weather wardrobe that’s as pragmatic as it is faintly unimaginative. What one would not anticipate: a shocking pink party dress, with gently ballooning sleeves and a ruffled hem.
Unless, that is, the brand in question was Stine Goya, a Danish label for those allergic to full-look camel, khaki and beige.
“Goya pink” – a retina-searing, Stabilo-highlighter hue – is the brand’s signature shade, and the aforementioned pink dress is one of the stand-out pieces in its capsule evening-wear collection for Net-A-Porter, which drops on the site on October 19.
That’s not the only traffic-stopper. Also of note: a powder blue suit with sprays of crystals, an ultra-flattering black midi dress flecked with gold, and a high-necked crepe dress with embellishment on the shoulders in Liz Taylor lemon.
Oh, and a feathered knit – founder Stine Goya’s favourite piece, because it “adds an unexpected twist and texture to an evening-wear look.”
That surprising tweak to a classic is one of Goya’s specialities. It has won her legions of fans, including the cast that feature in the accompanying imagery: the Danish models Helena Christensen and Emma Rosenzweig, the accessories designer Yvonne Koné and the actress Alba August, amongst others.
“Rather than confining our designs to an ideal of a woman, we are inspired by real women and their everyday lives,” says Goya, who also appears in the campaign, a vision in fuchsia.
“There is a sense of empowerment that comes with wearing our bold prints and colours.”
Goya launched her brand in 2006. A former model and fashion editor (she changed her name to Stine Goya, the moniker she now goes by, at the behest of her model agent, though she added Hertz when she married her husband), she is Central Saint Martins-trained, and set up her own label when she spotted a gap in the market.
“At the time, Scandinavian minimalism was emerging on the international scene and I wanted to be the alternative, so I created my own universe of colour and prints,” she says, citing her friend, the artist John Kørner, as inspiration.
Goya has a wonderful feel for colour and is not afraid to use it: the kitchen at her Copenhagen office boasts bronze-fronted Ikea cabinets adapted by Reform Copenhagen, butter yellow walls and accents of plum woodwork.
Jolting hues are at the heart of the under-the-radar appeal of her clothes, and she likes to juxtapose the masculine and the feminine.
“I would always add a feminine floral print to a tailored suit, style a silk shirt underneath a dress, or add Goya pink to the classic trench,” she says.
As days become shorter and temperatures nose-dive, one would do well to adhere to her autumn fashion philosophy: “I’m a believer in what can only be described as colour therapy. It livens the mood of the people around me and sets the tone for the day.”